San Blas Archipelago, The Kunas call it "Kuna Yala". Part II

Another export product San Blas is famous for is one of its arts and crafts, the mola. Visitors will see women at work making molas, the traditional women's garments. These are panels of cloth appliqu?, which are sewn into the fronts and backs of blouses. Mola designs vary from the abstract and geometric to representations of fish, birds, jungle animals and innumerable other subjects, all different, but all distinctly Kuna. These works of art are one of Panama's best-known native crafts and can be purchased in every town of San Bias. Also available are necklaces of sea shells, and chaquiras, the bead bracelets used to adorn women's arms and legs.

Kuna law prohibits fishing in their waters by boats with sophisticated machinery or the taking of anything from the sea that a diver can not reach with air from his own lungs. Scuba diving is therefore not permitted, but tourists may snorkel.

Inhabitants of San Blas believe in superstition. According to the Kuna world vision, the world is divided into eight levels, with human beings living on the surface of the earth, known as Neg Kunas (this is where the name Kuna comes from), and this is the level that divides the others in half: that is to say that for the Kunas there are four levels below the earth and four levels above, and in the middle live human beings. Each level is inhabited by spirits, either good or evil, and only the Neles can visit these places in their (mental) travels. They practice monogamy and adultery is considered a felony.

Though they maintain their traditions, the Kuna have also become adept at modern business practices: The region's six hotels are owned and operated by the tribe, and all offer visits to nearby villages and snorkeling excursions. A newer hotel on the island of Kuadule offers private oceanfront huts and meals cooked by Kuna women. Business even comes to bear on any photos that you take of the Kuna: On most islands, you'll be expected to pay US$1 for each person in the photo.

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